Drummers in red waistcoats leading the Cavalcata Sarda parade down a street in Sassari, riders on horseback behind them

Festivals · Festes

The festival year

L'any de les festes · 40.56° N 8.32° E

Alghero keeps a Catalan calendar inside an Italian region: fire in January, a Holy Week sung in polyphony, a patron saint at the end of September. Everything on this page happens within about 100 km of the old town, and most of it far closer.

Photo Gianni Careddu / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Twenty-one dates · eight towns

January to December

The festival year here is built on saints' days, on Sundays counted from Easter and on a handful of fixed weekends in August. Below, each one in order, with where it happens and how far that is from Alghero.

  1. Jan

    16–17 January

    Sant'Antonio Abate

    Sant Antoni Abat

    AlgheroIn town

    A bonfire is lit on the eve of the saint's day. The fire, not the procession, is the point.

    More about this festival

    In Sardinia the night of 16 January belongs to fire. A stack of wood is blessed and lit, people stand around it with wine and something sweet, and the next morning the saint is carried out to bless the fields and the animals. The same fire opens the carnival season across the island: the first masks appear the moment it is burning.

    A bonfire burning against the dark
  2. 17 January to Shrove Tuesday

    Carrasegare 'Osincu

    Carnevale di Bosa

    Bosa45 km

    Sardinia's most improvised carnival — barely any floats, no script, and the whole town in costume.

    More about this festival

    The season opens with the Sant'Antonio bonfire and closes on Shrove Tuesday with two rites in one day. In the morning s'Attitidu: figures dressed in black mourning a doll that stands for the dead king of carnival, wailing their way through the streets. After dark Giolzi, the same crowd in white, hunting him with lanterns until his effigy is burned. Between the two the town improvises — satire, disguise and whatever the year has earned.

    Masked figures in black holding dolls during the s'Attitidu rite in Bosa
  3. Feb

    Carnival week, February

    Lo Carraixali de l'Alguer

    Carnevale algherese

    AlgheroIn town

    Allegorical floats through the streets by the port, aimed squarely at children and families.

    More about this festival

    Alghero's carnival is the domestic kind: floats built over the winter, school groups, the town band, and a frittellata — a mass frying of carnival fritters — to finish. It runs in the week before Ash Wednesday, so the date moves with Easter. For the older and stranger version of Sardinian carnival, drive down the coast to Bosa.

    Confetti scattered across a street after a carnival parade
  4. Weekends, February to early April

    Bogamarì

    Sagra del riccio di mare

    AlgheroIn town

    Sea urchins opened on the quay and eaten there, with bread and a glass of white.

    More about this festival

    Bogamarì is the Algherese word for sea urchin. The ones caught here feed on posidonia and are prized for it, and the season falls in the cold months, when the roe is full. On festival weekends stalls go up along the port and fishermen open the urchins in front of you; restaurants in town put a sea-urchin dish on the menu for the whole run. Fishing is regulated season by season, so the calendar can shift.

    Sea urchins gathered in a net after a dive off Alghero
  5. Mar

    Holy Week, March or April

    Setmana Santa

    Settimana Santa

    AlgheroIn town

    Spanish-rooted rites kept in Catalan Alghero since the end of the sixteenth century.

    More about this festival

    The week runs from the Friday of Sorrows to Easter Monday, and two nights carry it. On Holy Thursday, Les Cerques moves between the churches of the old town. On Good Friday comes the Desclavament — the deposition, staged inside the church, the body lowered from the cross — and after it a procession that crosses the centre behind polyphonic choirs, lit by torches. All of it is free and all of it is crowded.

    The stone facade of the church of San Francesco in Alghero's old town
  6. Monday after Palm Sunday

    Lunissanti

    Lunedì Santo

    Castelsardo67 km

    Hooded confraternities carry the instruments of the Passion, singing, from seven in the morning until night.

    More about this festival

    Castelsardo keeps its main Holy Week rite on the Monday after Palm Sunday rather than on Good Friday, a survival usually attributed to Benedictine monks. The Mysteries are handed out at dawn in the church of Santa Maria, then carried out to the basilica of Nostra Signora di Tergu and back. The night procession leaves the cathedral at half past eight, with choirs alternating along the way.

    Hooded members of a confraternity during the procession of the Mysteries in Castelsardo
  7. May

    Penultimate Sunday of May

    Cavalcata Sarda

    Sassari37 km

    Three and a half thousand people in traditional dress from all over the island, then bareback racing.

    More about this festival

    Not a religious feast: it was staged for a royal visit in the nineteenth century and revived in 1951. The morning is the parade — dozens of groups on foot and on horseback, each in the dress of its own village, which in Sardinia changes from one valley to the next. In the afternoon the pariglie, riders standing upright on galloping horses, run at the Pinna racecourse. The evening ends in Piazza d'Italia with launeddas, ballu tundu and canto a tenore.

    Horses in decorated harness at the Cavalcata Sarda parade in Sassari
  8. May, around Pentecost

    Festha Manna

    Santi Gavino, Proto e Gianuario

    Porto Torres36 km

    A night pilgrimage on foot from Sassari cathedral to the basilica of San Gavino.

    More about this festival

    Porto Torres honours its three martyrs — Gavino, Proto and Gianuario — over more than a month, but the core is one weekend. On 3 May the statues are carried from the basilica down to Balai by the sea. The climax comes on the eve of Pentecost, when the pilgrimage leaves Sassari at ten at night and walks to the basilica in the dark. A fair fills the old centre around it for three days.

    The Romanesque facade of the basilica of San Gavino in Porto Torres
  9. Last weekend of May

    Cantine Aperte

    Alghero · NurraIn town

    The estates on the plain north of town open their gates for the day.

    More about this festival

    A national wine-tourism day, running since 1993. Around Alghero it means the big Nurra estates: Sella & Mosca, whose vineyards sit on the limestone plain towards Fertilia, and the growers' cooperative at Santa Maria La Palma. Torbato is the one to ask for — a white grape brought over in the Catalan-Aragonese period and planted today on fewer than a hundred hectares, almost all of them here. Vermentino and Cannonau are the safer bets.

    Vineyards at the Sella & Mosca estate outside Alghero
  10. Jun

    Late June to late July

    Abbabula

    Sassari and around37 km

    A month of songwriters and bands, spread between Sassari, Porto Torres, Sennori and Alghero.

    More about this festival

    Run by a Sassari cooperative since the late 1990s, Abbabula puts concerts in places that are not concert halls: the atrium of the San Gavino basilica, a disused tuff quarry at Sennori, a beach bar at Porto Ferro, and a run of nights in Sassari's Piazza Università. The bill leans towards Italian songwriting with international names attached.

    An audience with raised hands at an open-air concert
  11. Concerts from June to October

    JazzAlguer

    AlgheroIn town

    Jazz in a nuraghe, a wine cellar and a pine grove — the venues are half the programme.

    More about this festival

    Founded in 2017 and directed for its first three years by Paolo Fresu, JazzAlguer spreads a season across the year instead of packing it into a week. Concerts land at Lo Quarter in the old town, but also at the Palmavera nuraghe, the Sella & Mosca cellars and the pines behind Mugoni beach. Running alongside it through July and August, a separate classical season plays in the cloister of San Francesco.

    A jazz band playing in the street
  12. Jul

    Six days in mid-July

    Ittiri Folk Festa

    Ittiri29 km

    An international folk festival that opens in Sassari and closes on a square in Alghero.

    More about this festival

    Held since the mid-1980s in Ittiri, half an hour inland, the festival brings dance groups from several continents and sets them beside Sardinian ones. Most of it fills the Missingiagu park and the streets of the village, with a preview evening in Sassari and a closing night in Alghero's Piazza Lo Quarter — so you can catch the end of it without leaving town.

    Dancers of the Ittiri Cannedu group in the traditional dress of Ittiri, walking behind their embroidered banner at a parade
  13. Aug

    First Sunday of August

    Santa Maria del Mare

    Madonna del Mare

    Bosa45 km

    A statue of the Madonna carried up the river Temo by a convoy of decorated boats.

    More about this festival

    The feast goes back to a statue found in 1675. On the Sunday morning boats dressed with flags, reeds and flowers leave Bosa Marina and escort the Madonna up the Temo to the cathedral in town; in the afternoon the convoy makes the same journey back. If the sea allows it, a wreath is dropped beyond the tower for those lost at sea.

    Boats moored along the Temo river below the coloured houses of Bosa
  14. 8–16 August

    Time in Jazz

    Berchidda103 km

    Paolo Fresu's festival: nine days of concerts in churches, oak woods and village squares.

    More about this festival

    Fresu started it in his home village in 1988 and it has become the island's best-known jazz festival. Berchidda's Piazza del Popolo takes the evening headliners; the daytime concerts move around Logudoro and Gallura — a country church, a clearing in the Limbara forest, a farmyard — and are the reason people come back. It is the furthest thing on this page, a little over an hour and a half by car.

    The village of Berchidda seen across open country, with the Limbara hills behind
  15. 14 August

    Faradda di li Candareri

    Discesa dei Candelieri

    Sassari37 km

    Thirteen wooden columns, danced through the old town by the guilds that own them.

    More about this festival

    The candelieri are painted wooden pillars about three metres tall, weighing some four hundred kilos each, carried on the shoulders of the gremi — descendants of the city's craft guilds. They do not simply process: they are made to dance to drum and pipe, all the way down to the church of Santa Maria di Betlem. The vow behind it dates to a plague in 1652, and UNESCO listed the festival as intangible heritage in 2013.

    Bearers carrying a candeliere on their shoulders through a street in Sassari
  16. Late August

    Regata della Vela Latina

    Stintino54 km

    The last Italian fleet to keep the lateen rig, racing out of the old harbour.

    More about this festival

    Two brothers started the regatta in 1983, trying to keep Stintino's working boats afloat, and it became the reference event for Mediterranean lateen sail in Italy; some editions have drawn more than a hundred boats. Racing runs out of the Porto Vecchio, the narrow inlet the village was built around. The beach at La Pelosa is ten minutes further north, so the day is easy to combine.

    Boats moored in the old harbour of Stintino
  17. Sep

    Second weekend of September

    Nostra Signora de Regnos Altos

    Bosa45 km

    The old quarter is hung with greenery and small altars for the Madonna to stop at.

    More about this festival

    The statuette was found in the ruins of the Malaspina castle in 1847, and the feast has followed the same route ever since: down from the castle chapel through Sa Costa to the cathedral on Saturday, back up on Sunday. What makes it is sos altarittos — small altars built into doorways and windows along the way, dressed with lace, flowers and family linen, each one a stop for the rosary and for gosos sung in Sardinian.

    Malaspina castle above the coloured houses of the Sa Costa quarter in Bosa
  18. Around 29 September

    Sant Miquel

    San Michele Arcangelo

    AlgheroIn town

    The patron saint's day, and the town's way of admitting that summer is over.

    More about this festival

    Six days or so of concerts, exhibitions, guided walks and food around the feast of Saint Michael on 29 September, ending with the solemn mass in the cathedral and a procession through the old town. Recent editions have added Catalan touches the town takes seriously — castellers building human towers, and giant puppets — a reminder of where the place came from.

    The majolica dome of the church of San Michele rising above the roofs of Alghero
  19. Oct

    Autumn — the date moves

    Rally Italia Sardegna

    AlgheroIn town

    The World Rally Championship's Sardinian round, with the service park on the seafront.

    More about this festival

    Alghero has hosted the island's WRC round most years since 2014, with the service park set up on Lungomare Barcellona and the ceremonial finish under the bastions. The stages themselves run on gravel in the hills inland. Both the date and the host town have moved between editions — it has been June, it has been October, and one recent year it went to Olbia — so check before you plan a trip around it.

    A World Rally Championship car on a gravel stage in Sardinia
  20. 31 October – 1 November

    Is Animeddas

    Su Mortu Mortu

    Across Sardinia

    Children go door to door for the souls, and are paid in sweets and dried fruit.

    More about this festival

    Older than the imported Halloween and still going: on the night between 31 October and 1 November children knock on doors and ask for an offering for the little souls, answering “mortu mortu” when asked who is there. They are given sweets, nuts and dried figs, and in return the household is prayed for. The name changes across the island — is animeddas, su mortu mortu, is panixeddas.

    A basket of traditional Sardinian sweets on a laid table
  21. Dec

    Late November to early January

    Cap d'Any de l'Alguer

    Capodanno di Sardegna

    AlgheroIn town

    Six weeks of markets and lights, ending with free concerts and a New Year's Eve crowd at the port.

    More about this festival

    Alghero was the first town in Sardinia to build a whole programme around New Year, and has run it since 1995. Christmas markets and an ice rink open in the old town at the end of November; the last days of December bring free concerts to Piazzale della Pace, the square above the marina; and the programme carries on into the first week of January. It is the busiest the town gets outside August.

    Fireworks over water

Dates are the ones these festivals usually keep, not a schedule. Anything tied to Easter moves every year, and programmes are published a few weeks ahead — check the official page before you book.

Photos Gianni Careddu, Ppf 23, Stefano Bussolon, Marco Busdraghi, Sailko, Louis.attene, Cristiano Cani, Tasi Zoltán, Gaelle Marcel, Jonathan Denney, Fede Casanova, Adam Whitlock / Wikimedia Commons, CC0 / CC BY / CC BY-SA. Where no free photograph of a festival exists, the picture is illustrative and its description says what it actually shows.